Interlude Post 4 from the Ferry "Swift," in the Irish Sea

We just finished up a visit to Ireland with Kathy (mom) and Barbara, and now we're aboard our ferry for the trip back to the UK.

What a nice week - it didn't rain at all the entire visit. In fact the radio and some people we met indicated it was the best weather "in 6 years", or "since 1996", "since the 80's", "in their lifetime", etc. etc. Very lucky for us in any case.

We toured the country anti-clockwise, starting with a visit to Dublin and the city sights of Trinity College, the Guinness Factory, the Cathedral of St. Patrick.  We also saw Malahide Castle, just outside of town.

For the next few days we visited the northwest, including a stay at Ashford Castle and a chance to practice our Falconry skills with a bird-of-prey named Inca.  The castle was very scenic and it was nice to experience that side of Ireland's history, including afternoon tea.

Moving on, we headed down the coast to Killarney, and visited the great Cliffs of Moher, the Dingle peninsula, and the famed Ring-of-Kerry, all featuring amazing scenery, narrow roads, and culinary delights. One of the best was a bowl of seafood chowder in Dingle, which tasted unlike anything we could imagine, in a good way.

The Killarney area and touring was probably our favorite area, but we did have a good time as well in the southeast area of Cobh, Waterford, and Killkenny, where we stayed in a bed and breakfast on a working dairy farm - pretty neat to see the cows milked first thing in the morning and then eat cereal and toast with butter! This B&B was also in a fairly isolated town, and we visited the local pub, only to find it filled with 70+ year old locals jamming on their traditional musical instruments, including pipes, strings, squeeze boxes, and guitars, and a few a cappella ballads.  Pretty awesome sight to see.

Along the drive, we stumbled across the McCarthy Castle, which was interesting because the conversation quickly turned to inheritance rules and who would be the lucky one to get the castle passed to them. Obviously, I think it should be me.

Too quickly the visit ended, but not before we had a chance to check out Kilkenny Castle and the Rock of Cashel in central Ireland, and the Wicklow mountains and Powerscourt gardens on the northern leg.

Everyone listed their top experiences for the trip: among them were the aforementioned Chowder in Dingle, as well as the Castle experience, the mountain scenery, the Irish Stew, the individual score of 51 in the ipad game "94 seconds," the pub experience, the "trad" music, and the good company. A great way to experience Ireland.

Lest we forget the actual purpose of this blog, Navigator remains safely dry-docked in Trinidad, and we keep a close eye on the Atlantic hurricane season weather reports. But otherwise, our short term plans are to visit a bit more of Wales and England, before heading back to the mainland for the 7 day drive to Norway, which we hope to reach around the beginning of August.

Interlude Post 3 from Dublin, Ireland

After indulging in the best hot chocolate in the universe in Edinburgh, Scotland, we headed north to the highlands for a few days of hiking and sight seeing.  We quickly realized that Scotland will be a place we want to come back to - there is too much to see!

The first couple days were spent near Cairngorns National Park in northern Scotland.  The landscape reminded us of the Alaska wilds, but was subtly unique due to the people and "worn" feel that the area had from thousands of years of human habitation.  Some of the highlights included a hike into a glacial cirque, an awesome campsite on the edge of a stream in an Old Growth Caledonian Spruce tree glen, and some delicious dinners in our camps (no we did not indulge in the haggis).

Later, we moved west to Glen Affrick and Glen Coe, two additional areas of outstanding beauty.  Glen Coe had to be the highlight though, featuring a great 1500 meter climb to a saddle in between two peaks in a beautiful mountain pass, as well as another amazing campsite on the edges of a scenic loch (which reminds me that we drove past Loch Ness, but didn't see any Plesiosaurs).

After too short of a visit in Scotland, we hopped the ferry for the ride to Belfast, Northern Ireland, where we visited an old rope bridge to a fishing island, and the geologic wonder of "Giant's Causeway," a volcanic feature of perfect crystallized basalt/mud rock formed about 60 million years ago.

However, the except for any geologists reading (Kristen?), the more interesting part is the legend, which states that the Causeway was built by the Giant Fin McCool, who built the Causeway so he could enter battle with the Scottish Giant Benandonner.  The victor is unknown....

After a couple days in Northern Ireland, we drove south today and just arrived outside Dublin, where we await the arrival of our guests from Massachusetts, for a 10 day sojourn in Ireland.

Interlude Post 2 from Edinburgh, Scotland

We have been so busy, no rest for the weary!  Since Paris, we have biked amongst giant French country chateaux, toured an abbey on a rock (Mont St. Michel), visited D Day beaches and caught the 4 hour car ferry to Poole, England.

Arriving in England, we visited Bath (of Jane Austen era fame), Avebury (largest stone circle in the WORLD) and it's more famous neighbor Stonehenge, which surprisingly did live up to the hype.  The next day we headed west to Devon and Cornwall and enjoyed Cornish pasties (phylo-dough steak pies) and cream tea (thick clotted cream and jam on a scone with a cup of tea).  We visited windswept seaside cliffs and ate fish and chips in viilages that reminded us of downeast Maine.  We saw castle ruins and lots of sheep.  We hiked amongst the windy moors and alongside more sheep and cows and the occasional horse.

From the west we spent a couple of days in London, seeing the sights despite the rain and visiting Greenwich, home of longitude zero and the first clocks used to help mariners determine their position.  The history we have immersed ourselves in is staggering, it's difficult to sort out which King Henry was married to which wife and which ones lost their heads, but it's all fascinating.  From London we headed north, stopping at Leicester (the original), Cambridge (on graduation day unbeknownst to us!), Petersborough (home of a relatively unknown but amazing cathedral), hiked in Yorkshire Dales into a Limestone "Scar" or 80m deep canyon.  From there we went north to Hadrian's Wall, the northern limit of the Roman Empire in its heyday 2000 years ago, and a beautiful hilltop hike.  We managed 7 miles on a rainy day, but the trail spans 73 miles from coast to coast, most of which the thick, rock wall is still in tact.

We've been in Scotland for only 2 days and already are in love.  Its Kodiak weather (cold and mostly rainy with snippets of glorious sunshine), but it's beautiful and laid back with lots of down to earth personality.  We've visited abbeys that were put out of use in the 1600s but still stand today, shells of earlier churches of greatness, including the rescued Rosslyn chapel of Da Vinci Code fame, its intricate carvings are a marvel indeed.  Edinburgh was our destination today, the castle was crowded so we opted for enjoying the external view and walking the streets and exploring the wares and musicians and food smells of this small but vibrant city.  Tomorrow we head to the highlands to do some hiking in the wildlands, hopefully the sun makes a more consistent appearance!

We've only spent 2 nights in a hotel since our initial arrival and it's working out quite well.  The campgrounds here are very nice and everywhere.  We've slept amongst goats (no need to cut the grass with them around!), in view of castles, within walking distance of a metro station, and even in the backyard of a pub.  The facilities are top notch and well marked, so we never worry about finding a place to sleep.  We equipped well in France with a tent that literally takes 2 seconds to set up and an air mattress that rivals the boat for comfy-ness.  There are so many local treats to try that we have done surprisingly little cooking, and we want to see so much in each day that we don't spend much time in the campground other than to shower and sleep.  It is nice to have a hot shower at the end of each day, a luxury we didn't even have on the boat...so in some ways, we're moving up in the world!

As we drive from place to place, we read up on the history or any other interesting tidbits of information we can gather, and have been keeping a written log as we do on Navigator to cronicle our adventures so we can remember the details in the future.  We are taking so many pictures that we have to download and label them every couple of days before we forget where it was we took the picture!  Chris is queing up a couple of interesting video projects once we get back to the slower pace of boat living, and we're having fun collecting the footage he'll need.

Next up is Ireland and we eagerly await the arrival of Kathy and Barbara to come adventuring with us for a tour of the land of limericks and leperchauns.

Until next time, to use the vernacular, Cheers!

Interlude Post 1 from Paris, France

It's been a whirlwind week and a half since we left Trinidad.  We moved up our flight after finishing up the needed boat work and opted to spend some time with the Gaffeys in central Florida.  We thought it would be cooler, but with the increased humidity, we were grateful for the air conditioning!  We also met up with Erin again and went tubing on the Itchetucknee river.  It was a great, cool way to spend an afternoon.  We took care of some needed purchases and logistics and stuffed ourselves silly.  There's nothing like good ole' home cookin!

Before we knew it, it was time to head back to Fort Lauderdale and begin the next leg of the journey. We crossed our fingers and hoped our baggage would follow us from Florida to New York to Iceland and finally to Paris...and luckily, everything made it!  We were exhausted from lack of sleep on the overnight flight and 6 hour time difference and despite the language barrier and minimal knowledge of the location of our hotel, our very patient cab driver got us where we needed to go, with all of our stuff.  And then we slept...and slept some more.  We ended up getting through the night on a handful of cornflakes that we snagged from the breakfast room until the next morning.

We are out in the country, near Chantilly Castle, but more importantly, about 15 steps from the train station. Monday, we hopped aboard an express train and found ourselves in the center of the city only 20 minutes later.  We made our way to the Louvre and spent a couple of hours roaming around the massive museum.  We did catch most of the uber famous collections, but the best was taking a picture of all the people taking a picture of the Mona Lisa, in our opinion, it's overhyped, but the museum itself was phenomenal.  After that, it was time for lunch!

We grabbed baguette sandwiches from a street side vendor and ate them along the Seine, watching the canal ferries go by.  The afternoon was a whirlwind walking tour of Notre Dame, the Lover's Locks bridge (which we happened upon by chance), the Latin Quarter and Luxembourg Palace, an afternoon snack of a Nutella crepe, then down the Jardin des Tuileries, with a people-watching break, The Concorde square, where Marie Antionette lost her head...and where you can see from the Louvre to the Arc de Triomphe, over to the Hotel des Invalides (another massive building), through an affluent neighborhood where we stopped for caffiene to keep us going, and over to the Eiffel Tower.  We elected to enjoy its majesty from the Jardins du Trocadere which had some lovely fountains and a lot less of a crowd.  We wandered back into a neighborhood and found a nice outdoor cafe (there's one on every street corner at least) and enjoyed a nice dinner of Beef Bourguignon and stumbled back to the train for the ride back to the hotel.  The sky stays light late, until after 10pm, but we were wiped by 830.

The next day was our car pick up, so we took the train back to the airport and picked up our swanky new ride for the next 3 months and then found a town to stock up on camping supplies that we needed.  Along the way, we happened by Chantilly Castle, another of those awesome, complete surprises.  We did some planning and zonked early.  Today we went back to Paris, first to Montmartre, home of Moulin Rouge and the highest hill of the city, then we took the subway back toward the city center and scoped out the Palace of Justice and the Chapel there.

The history lesson was fascinating and we were humbled by the church with the storied stained glass built in the 1200s and the Prison that housed the victims of the Reign of Terror in the 1700s.  Chris commented on how between 1200 and 1700, those buildings were built and saw such fascinating history, and are still standing and being used today, and yet, just that equivalent small slice of time (500 years) in the life of these buildings encompasses the ENTIRE history of the United States.  The architecture here is definitely built to last.   We wrapped up today back in the Latin Quarter, with sandwiches again and walked up to the Pantheon, another impressive structure.


Tomorrow we leave the hotel and Paris behind and head for the "castle district," in the Loire Valley, where the seat of power and wealth in France was once centered. We will start making our way westward to the coast, and we're excited to start the camping phase of our adventure throughout the countryside of France and the UK.

Chaguaramas, Trinidad (Drydocked)

We've arrived in Trinidad, which is Navigator's home for hurricane season.  Because Trinidad is south of 12 degrees north latitude, it is seldom hit by tropical systems.  Over a thousand boats haul out here each summer while their crew travel or return to their homes for the dangerous hurricane season.  Our plan is to dry-dock here at the shipyard until December.

Our trip south from Grenada was uneventful - it was a 90 mile trip, so we left at 2pm on Tuesday and arrived before lunch on Wednesday morning.  Along the way, we passed some of Venezuela's oil fields, with their associated drilling rigs - quite a sight.

Since then, we've spent the week on Navigator cleaning, organizing, and putting her to rest for the summer.  It's a bit of a challenge because the climate is so warm - like working in a sauna.  So we start work at 5am and then take a long lunch working inside.  However, we just finished our last bit of work and are now enjoying a tasty beverage and writing this blog post to end our first sailing season. We've also gotten a chance to hang out with our friend Rich, who is hauling out at the same yard.

You'd be surprised how much gear fits on a small sailboat - by the time we had everything out of it's locker and airing on deck, the entire boat was filled with detritus!  But, after dryi
ng it all out, it fit nicely back in it's home, and Navigator is ship shape again.

One of the coolest changes we made was that Kellee created a custom boat cover out of canvas using the mighty sewing machine.  Two days of work  and 22 yards of fabric later, Navigator is covered from the elements and bird poo for the season, which should hopefully keep her a bit dryer over the rainy season.

Now that Navigator is put to rights, it's time to focus on our next leg of the sabbatical - we'll be flying over to France and camping around Europe for the next 4 months.  So we've been stuffing as much junk in our packs as possible in an attempt to take as much of home with us as possible - including our folding bikes!

So...signing off from Trinidad for now.  We'll post periodic "hurricane season interlude" blog posts from Europe and beyond, but Navigator is going to take the summer off, and we'll resume our sailing in December...to an unknown destination!

Here's a video of our dry-docking yesterday:

Prickly Bay, Grenada

From St. George's, we only had to sail about 6 miles, but the last two were dead into the wind, waves and current and the two measly miles took us almost two hours!  We later overheard other boats talking about similarly frustrating trips, so we felt redeemed that we weren't the only ones.

Prickly Bay is cruiser central.  There is a radio net every morning to discuss the happenings around town, and through this we were able to set up an island taxi tour and a turtle watching tour, more on those shortly.  We were also able to reconnect with KELLY RAE and set up a hike.  There is a small marina with showers, minimart, and ice, as well as a customs office, and a short dinghy ride brings you to the bus stop and chandlery.  The nice set up and fairly protected bay attracts both cruisers passing through and those spending the hurricane season in Grenada.  The weather has been getting flukier, with more squalls and less consistent winds.  When the calms come, we roll a bit, and as one guy put it so eloquently, "when you're rolling at 3 in the morning, you start to take it a bit personally!"  Most nights are fine, sleep is only disturbed by having to close the hatch when a rain squall comes through.

Our first adventure was a walk around the area.  We were looking for the shopping mall, but several wrong turns showed us a ritzy neighborhood and the medical school college.  It was hot, so we stopped for a couple of tasty beverages along the way.  The next day was our island tour and one of the highlights of all our time in the islands.

"Cutty" picked us up at 9 and became our driver and guide for the next 8 hours.  We drove from the southern end of the island, up through the middle, all the way to the northeast corner and back down the windward side, stopping at several sites, and he showed us much of the flora of the island.  It was evident that plants are his thing, and we were really excited to finally have someone point out all the different types of plants and trees with fruits and flowers.  He showed us how to open cococa pods and suck the yummy flesh from around the seeds, which plants are good for different ailments, including which will stimulate the removal of a cow's afterbirth (probably won't need that knowledge in the future, but it was interesting all the same).  Here's a list of what we can remember seeing: cocoa, cinnamon, lemongrass, banana, coconut, papaya, pineapple, sugar apple, wax apple (introduced by the Tawainese), boli (cut in half it's then called calabash, a very hard shelled inedible fruit that is used for making cups, bowls and spoons), breadfruit, jackfruit, starfruit, ginger, tumeric, garlic flower, helvetica (used in the Chelsea flower show in England where Grenada usually medals), basil, bay, clove, nutmeg, grapefruit, callaloo and dasheen (the leave is large and like a spinach, the root like a yam), chadon beni (relative to cilantro but you have to cook it or it feels like eating fiberglass), cashew, several species of mango, noni (smells terrible, but supposedly a teaspoon of the ooze per day keeps your immune system strong), and others I've already forgotten...you could never starve here, every other tree has something.  He even showed us a plant whose leaves shrink when you touch it, that was planted around farms in slave days so that if a slave tried to run away, the owners could see their foot prints.

We got a little bit of history, and saw firsthand the devastation caused by hurricane Ivan that is still working on recovery.  Grenada was once the world's leading exporter of nutmegs, but the hurricane wiped out most of the trees.  The damaged trees are just starting to fruit again, so farmers are excited. We visited a nutmeg processing station where farmers bring their harvested nutmegs.  The nuts have to be dried for several weeks before they are ready for export and there were lots of drying racks in use.  The process of culling the nutmegs for quality and then removing the outer shell is extremely labor intensive and employs almost a hundred people at each station.  Before the hurricane, there were 17 stations, now there are only 1.5 in operation. We got the sense that this industry was the soul of the country and the hurricane's hardest impact to recover from.

We also visited a cocoa processing station, where farmers bring cocoa beans that have been removed from the pods.  The beans then need to be fermented for 7 days to develop the flavor as we know it, and then dried in the sun for another seven days, while walked through to stir them every half hour so they dry evenly.  Once dried, the beans are sacked up and exported to chocolate making factories all over the world.  Farmers get $1.50 EC a pound for cocoa, which is about 45 cents U.S.

Finally, we visited a local rum factory that has not changed production methods since they opened in 1785.  The rum is pure sugar cane alcohol and potent stuff, but they use a water wheel to grind the cane juice from the sugar cane stalk, then use the dried stalks for the fire to heat the juice to concentrate it and the river water is again used in the distilling process.  Nothing goes to waste but it too is labor intensive and their methods restrict output, so only Grenadians can purchase this nearly toxic rum.  The rum is clear, because it isn't aged at all, it's almost like moonshine and just walking around the factory gaves us a headache.

We also saw a bit of the rainforest, a waterfall muddy from all the recent rain, and some of the local monkeys keeping their distance in the trees.  We really liked this tour and Cutty was a great guide.

The next day we met up with Rich from KELLY RAE and took the bus to St. George's, then hopped another bus back into the rainforest and hiked to Seven Sisters Falls.  We went for a short swim and hiked back out and up to the top, hoping to sight the monkeys again, but they weren't around.  We had lunch and grabbed a bus back to town and stopped off at the market to get a few spices then walked around the inner harbor back toward the marina we had stayed in and stopped at a bakery for an afternoon snack.  We grabbed a bus back to Prickly Bay and went for a swim to wash off the grime.  It was a fun but tiring day, it's been awhile since we did that much walking!

We took a down day, just puttering on the boat, reading and Chris working hard on his navigation guide.  Sunday was rainy, so we stayed put and hoped it would clear up for our evening turtle tour.  It rained on the 1.5 hour drive up, but it stopped just as we arrived.  We got a quick briefing and headed out to the beach.  Watching these giant leatherback turtle mamas come out of the surf in the moonlight and make their way up the beach was a sight to behold.  The size of a small car, they were dark masses against the foaming sea and we stayed clear until they were comfortably digging their nests.

Using their powerful, large back flippers, they dug holes over two feet deep and laid in over a hundred eggs each, then used those flippers and their body weight to pack the nest closed and covered.  Then they threw sand around everywhere to camoflauge the scene and headed back toward the water.  The whole process took less than an hour.  We saw four different mamas, and were told there were 3 more down the beach.  Each mama will come ashore every 9-10 days for about two months and lay a nest, and then the eggs take 2 months to mature and hatch.  The researchers on sight that tagged the turtles and counted eggs as she laid them have determined that in a season, a mama leatherback will lay 1000 eggs, and research shows that of those 1000 eggs, only ONE will survive to adult hood.  Almost makes you want to cry, especially after seeing how much effort they take to ensure their nest has the best chance of survival.

The hatchlings are only about the size of Kellee's hand and get preyed upon by everything from birds to crabs, and that's before they even make it the 15 feet to the sea!  It was an awesome experience to say the least.  And the rain held off, which made it even better!

Today we'll tidy the boat and get a few groceries, have dinner with Rich, and tomorrow the weather looks good for the crossing to Trinidad.  We'll clear out and stow the boat in the morning and set sail before lunch.  If all goes well, we should be in Trinidad by Wednesday afternoon.  We have a sense of completeness to our Caribbean experience after last night's turtle encounter and are itching to be on our way towards our next adventure.

Union Island to St. George's, Grenada

Since last post, we stopped in Union Island, our last island in the St. Vincent Grenadines chain.  We spent one night in Chatham Bay, a beautiful bay with only a few other boats.  It was here that Chris hauled Kellee up the mast for the pictures in the last post.  From there, we rounded the corner to Clifton, the main anchorage for the island.  We got some fresh food and opted to try kite surfing at the local school.  The location was perfect, right on the windward edge, with a protective reef and a lagoon sand bar, so we could stand in waist high water as we tried to figure it out.  The weather turned ugly in the middle of our lesson, so we came back the next day to finish.  Our instructor "Butter" was awesome, and very patient with us.  We got the hang of flying the kite, but when you put the board on, well, regular surfing is much easier.  We both managed to get up and going, but only made it about 20 feet before some specatular face plants.  Butter was impressed with how far we got in one lesson and seemed optimistic, we're not so sure.  If another opportunity presents itself to practice, maybe we will.

We cleared out of Union and had a nice downwind sail to Carriacou, an island just north of mainland Grenada and checked in to the country.  We picked up some yummy sandwich supplies at Patty's Deli and motored to Sandy Island, a strip of sand that was almost totally wiped out until a hurricane shored it up with dead coral and the locals planted shrubberies to hold the sand together.  The wind was up, so we did a quick drift snorkel with the dinghy, the fish were not super plentiful, but they were fearless and Chris got some good close up footage. We went ashore for some night photography and moved over to Tyrell Bay on the west end for the following night.  We figured with the dozens of boats in the harbor that there'd be decent services, but as we dinghied through the anchorage, we noticed that most of the boats were either derelict or laid up for the season.  The yacht club advertised showers, but there weren't any to be had, and the cafe menu offered smootheis, but we couldn't get any of those either.  We had our laundry done and saw it hanging on the line when we came to pick it up, kind of odd, to recognize your own clothes in someone else's yard!

Half way between Carriacou and Grenada are a few small islets that don't provide much protection, but we tucked into a small cove for a lunch and snorkel at Isle de Ronde.  Just to the north, we passed "Kick em Jenny," a towering monolith which lived up to its name by throwing up a wave which doused Chris at the helm and knocked some stuff around the cabin.  We have been slowly getting worse about how carefully we secure for sea on these short jumps between islands.  We did two short drift snorkels on Isle de Ronde, the current was very strong there, and did see one very large turtle and some decent reef.  We ate lunch and continued our downwind sail to mainland Grenada and grabbed a mooring at the marine park just north of the main city.

This marine park is newer and protecting the encompassing reef is still a work in progress, but the mooring was solid and the marine patrol guys were very friendly.  The next morning, before the tour groups arrived, we snorkeled the underwater sculpture park.  What a cool concept.  Built of materials which encourage reef growth, and sprinkled over sand patches in between coral heads, we had such fun swimming around looking for dozens of pieces of "living art".  We also came across a curious barricuda, a GIANT school of some small silver fish, and a very intriguing group of squid.  These creatures seem to communicate on a level greater than we humans, and they were not afraid of us at all.  Chris was convinced they were going to kidnap us and take us to their kingdom.

We had spent a very rolly, sleepless night on the mooring and considered our options for the next couple of days.  We want to explore the interior, but with it being a holiday weekend here, everything is closed, so we decided to pull into the marina in St. George's.  It has a pool, showers, internet and water, what more do we need?  We dinghied into town and walked around some of the older buildings, including Fort St. George, presumably the oldest fort in the Carribean, and the site of the execution of the Prime Minister in 1983.   We picked up some groceries and will hang out here staying cool at the pool, until Tuesday, when we'll head to the south end of the island and Prickly Bay, the main cruiser hangout, and our jumping point for the trip to Trinidad.  Hard to believe that this trip that has been years in the planning is coming to the end of the orginial idea.  We still haven't decided how we'll get back to the states, but we know we have to come back.  In fact, we sent the first  notice of our return to the Coast Guard, so the ball is officially rolling...

Canouan, Mayreau and the Tobago Cays

Our journey south through the Grenadines continued this week as we departed Bequia and made stops in Canouan, the Tobago Cays, and Mayreau; all enchanting anchorages.

Canouan was a great stop because of the huge anchorage and nice beach, allowing us to get some filming done for some navigation training videos.  On that front, "The Sailing Channel TV" picked up one of our videos for their site, so that was exciting news.

Otherwise on Canouan, a short hike over to the other side of the island greeted us with a huge coral lagoon for snorkeling.  Unfortunately, Kellee forgot her contacts, and Chris forgot the lens to the underwater camera...so no one gets to see anything.

After Canouan, we headed over to the Tobago Cays, a group of 4 uninhabited islands protected by two fringing coral reefs.  We had been looking forward to the Cays for some time because of the great reviews.  It ended up being good and ok.  The ok part was that there was about 50 other boats there, and the anchorage was really rocky and crowded.  However the good part was that we were able to snorkel on some reef areas away from the hordes.  We saw tons of turtles and a huge nurse shark (which we frightened without meaning to).  There was also a scary looking barracuda just cruising around checking us out in the weird way only a barracuda can.  The current was so strong that we simply jumped overboard from our dinghy and floated along until we ran out of reef and then reset - like a typewriter.

We left the Tobago Cays and headed over to the island of Mayreau, which as a nice anchorage with a thin patch of land between two opposite facing beaches - perfect for star photography, so we got some good shots of the southern sky.

All the turquoise water in this area had us wanting to get some interesting photos of the boat, so Chris hauled Kellee up the mast and she took some awesome photos from aloft.  One (the one at the top left of this post) was so good we submitted it to a sailing magazine, so we'll have to see what they think about it!

Otherwise, we've been eating through our canned food in the hopes of arriving in Trinidad in a few weeks on fumes, so we don't have to waste any canned chicken.  Kellee whipped up some homemade cinnamon rolls today which was the cause of a well-recieved food coma amongst the crew.

In a few days we'll quit the Grenadines belonging to St. Vincent and head over to the Grenadines belonging to the nation of Grenada, and spend our last 3 weeks there, before the hurricane season starts and our travels take us across the pond.